Summer Solstice in Paris

Romanticized as the city of love, and often called the city of lights, if you arrive just before June 21st, you will also find that Paris is the city of music. For my husband, Paris was an add on to the end of a work trip in France. But it was also our 20th year of our marriage, and the perfect excuse to meet for a quick weekend away in the city of love.

I had just flown in that morning and hardly slept on the plane, but the energy of the streets was contagious. That afternoon the France National Team had played and won in a World Cup match. Excited fans spilled out pub doors, arm in arm, waving flags, foreshadowing a winning weekend.

By early evening, we had already walked about six miles, found a few boutiques we wanted to revisit, and knocked the Notre Dame off our to do list. My feet were tired, and I felt the jet lag. But Paris is a walking city. Its part of the charm and culture. So instead of taking a cab from our ultra chic hotel, Les Bains, in Le Marais district, we walked another three miles to dinner. Le Grand 8 is in the 18th arrondissement and had been highly recommended by a friend. Its location, off the main road and away from the tourist attractions, was already a win for me as we approached the front door. With its rustic Parisian atmosphere, the locally sourced small French menu, a fabulous wine list, and just a few good dessert choices, this was exactly our style.

After finishing the most ridiculously delicious dessert and a chat with a local couple at the table next to us, we hurried out hoping to catch the Eiffel tower at sunset. We ran through the winding cobblestone streets holding hands – him usually one or two steps ahead. It felt as if we had stepped onto the set of a romance movie. My black pashmina wrap flapped around behind, leaving my shoulders uncovered, but perfectly warm in the summer air. We hurried through the streets as the darkness was quickly descending. Just in time, we found our viewpoint at the roof top bar of the Terrass Hotel. And as the sun set, we watched the city of love illuminate.

But this romantic movie wasn’t over yet. The city of love and lights had more for us on this warm summer solstice night. In our haste between the restaurant and the Eiffel Tower view, we took note of live musicians on sidewalks, block after block. Is this just a regular Thursday night thing in Paris? We wondered. Backtracking our way through the 18th Arrondissement, we found that small wine bar, Milord, and that live jazz ensemble we noted as we rushed by. There on that classic Parisian street we sipped another glass of wine while enjoying live jazz on a balmy summer evening. The perfect nightcap.

As we later learned, this wasn’t just an ordinary Thursday night. Once a year on June 21st, Parisians celebrate Summer Solstice and the art of music. This festival, known as the Fete de la Musique, is where amateur and professional musicians fill the sidewalks, gardens, and public areas with all genres of music. Now more of an international event, it originated in Paris in 1982 when Maurice Fleuret, the Director of Music for the Ministry of Culture in France, was driven by his desire to promote and popularize appreciation for contemporary music.

Paris is no doubt the city of love. But try Paris on June 21st. As far as a romantic evenings go, this was top ten. We expected the vibrant culture, the luring smells, and the famous lights of Paris. But the surprise of live music outside on a warm evening added another dimension. Perfection.